A visit to Socotra, the island of 'Blood Trees'

New Delhi: Socotra is a small archipelago of four islands in the Indian Ocean, near the Gulf of Aden. Situated some 250 miles off the coast of Yemen, the largest member of the archipelago, also called Socotra, is home to some of the weirdest looking plants that are found nowhere else on the planet. It is known for the umbrella shaped “blood trees”. The island is controlled by the Yemeni government but even they do not know why these trees only seem to grow on this island. Like the Galapagos Islands, this island is teeming with 825 rare species of plants of which more than a third are endemic. The marine life of Socotra is also very diverse, with 253 species of reef-building corals, 730 species of coastal fish and 300 species of crab, lobster and shrimp, and well represented in the property's marine areas. Some 250 million years or more ago, when all the planet's major landmasses were joined and most major life-forms roamed freely from one region to another, Socotra already stood as an island apart. Ever since Socotra has been a breeding ground of birds, plants and animals. The isolation from other land masses meant whatever evolutionary process the flora and fauna underwent never spread to the mainland. One of the most striking of Socotra's plants is the dragon's blood tree (Dracaena cinnabari), which is a strange-looking, umbrella-shaped tree. Its red sap was thought to be the dragon's blood of the ancients, sought after as a medicine and a dye and today used as paint and varnish. Also important in ancient times were Socotra's various endemic aloes, used medicinally, and for cosmetics. Other endemic plants include the giant succulent tree Dorstenia gigas, Moraceae, the cucumber tree Dendrosicyos socotranus, the rare Socotran pomegranate (Punica protopunica), Aloe perryi and Boswellia socotrana. Unlike the Galapagos, however, Socotra is significantly inhabited, and has been for some 2,000 years. More than 50,000 people now live on the main island of the archipelago. Fishing, animal husbandry, and the cultivation of dates are the primary occupations of the indigenous population. BEFORE YOU GOThe main Web site of the Socotra Archipelago Conservation and Development Programme (www.socotraisland.org) has good background information. Visas are required for American travelers; visit www.cdc.gov for information on recommended vaccinations and medications. Although the U.S. State Department currently maintains a travel warning for Yemen, most experts agree that travelers need not have safety concerns about Socotra. Organizing travel to Socotra is challenging, so a travel agent can be very helpful: try the excellent Poe Travel (800-727-1960; www.poetravel.com). WHEN TO GOOctober through April is best — especially March and April, when the sea is flat and ideal for snorkeling and diving. Avoid the windy monsoon season from May to September. GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUNDThere are only two flights a week to the island, operated by Yemen Airways (www.yemenia.com); seats sell out well in advance. On the island, you need to hire a four-wheel-drive vehicle, as well as an English-speaking driver and guide. Expect to pay $250 to $350 for four days; be sure to negotiate in advance. These arrangements, as well as hotel reservations, can be made through the Socotra Ecotourism Society (ecosocotra@socotraisland.org). HOTELSThe island's few hotels are basic. Some have rooms with private bathrooms and flush toilets; all are inexpensive (about $10 a night). The Taj Socotra (no relation to the India-based chain) in Hadibu is simple and clean and has a popular outdoor restaurant; there's also the newer Al Mohet and, outside of town near the airport, the Chalet Socotra. Camping is an ideal way to sleep, since the island's main ecological sites are one or more hours' drive away from Hadibu; you can arrange to rent gear on the island.